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Q10006 - HOWTO: How to install B&M shifter

Total install time approx 2.5 hours but not really trying to break any speed records... Text Courtesy of Striped04

The top of the console is held in place by about six snap-in type metal clips. There is one screw at the front of the change tray just under the cubby below the radio.

 

Remove the screw and then pull up on the top of the console just behind the TC button (with the armrest in the open position). Do not pry at the plastic with a screwdriver, just pull up on the plastic. Once it pops up, work your way forward until all of the clips are unseated.

There are two plugs on the underside of the console. One plug is for the TC button and one is for the power window switches. Unplug the connectors and the piece should now be free to be removed.

 

Pop the clips loose and raise the shift boot up and out of the way.

 

Weather Boot Removal

The weather boot is held in place by a metal frame that has the studs manufactured into it.

The nuts for the studs are located on the bottom side of the transmission tunnel. To remove them you will need to lift or jack the car up and use a 13mm wrench. The back two nuts can be removed with a deep-well socket and a long extension. The front passenger side nut can also be removed with a socket but you will need to use a universal joint to get the socket to angle a bit.

The last nut is not easy to get to. I used a small 13mm box wrench to slowly remove it (wrapping my arms around the transmission so it could be reached). If you need more clearance, you can remove the four bolts that hold the rear transmission brace in place. This will drop the transmission a couple of inches at the most but it will not fall.

Once the nuts are removed, unseat the two wire clips from the weather boot frame and remove it by pulling up on it.

 

Shifter Removal

The shifter is basically in three parts, the shifter handle, The handle is attached via two 10mm bolts.When you remove the handle the boot stays attached to it. there are instructions with the shifter for removal of the knob

 

The dust cover, attached with 4 #25 torx screws

 

The shifter is attached to the top of the shifter base by 7 bolts, four in the rectangle and three in the triangle, once these are removed the shifter lifts out as a unit. now remove the two rear-ward large allen head bolts, one is visable on the left in the photo below Be sure to remove the rubber o-ring that is on the bottom side of the shifter. DO NOT use this o-ring on the new shifter.

 

Installation

Once you have removed the stock shifter you will understand why the throw was so long...

The B&M drops right into place, and bolts into the stock holes

 

Attach the gear handle using the red loctite supplied with the shifter, remove the two Matching lower allen head Shifter Bracket bolts and re-install using loctite to prevent backing out and sloppiness in the shifter handle.

 

Reposition the dust boot and get back under the car, replace the 4 nuts and tighten making sure the boot seats properly.

 

If you have the dreaded black boot, P/N 92169186 will get you the white weather boot. The boot comes with the metal mounting ring for $38.46. Pictured below are both the black (bad) boot and the white (good) boot, thanks to Ken aka kmav8tor.

 

Press the stock knob down onto the handle firmly, re-attach the shift boot plastic frame.

 

Replace the trim piece, plug the window and T/C controls back in, carefully press the piece into place starting from the front and working your way back, finally re-install the set screw in the front cubby.

Finished

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Approved Comments...
what is "bad" about the black boot? why is the white boot better? Approved: 7/20/2007
The illustration is even better that what are available in spare parts stores in town ! Approved: 7/6/2007
Exellent write up. Thank you. Approved: 5/11/2007
awesome thanks man, my buddy said you know your stuff Approved: 3/26/2007
Pretty thorough, but did neglect to add that the shifter should be sealed to the transmission. Approved: 3/8/2007
Some of the bolts have changed. Now where the rear 2 large allen head bolts are they give you a stud with that requires a thin nut and a larger nut with a washer and a lock washer. Makes things alot tighter and a bit harder to install but worth it. Approved: 2/21/2007
B&M instuctions are good also, but are lacking when it come to the shifter knob. I found inserting 4 very small screw drivers under the catch/lock tabs enable just pulling the knob off by hand. New shifter is nice...short and small pattern. Takes some getting used to. RedDevilGTO Approved: 1/20/2007
cleaqr, concise instructions. Im going to test them as soon as my new shifter arrives. Thank you. Approved: 12/25/2006
Graphic picture displays in color. Approved: 10/12/2006
Just what I was looking for. Thanks!!! Approved: 4/5/2006
Yep, read this carefully, me and my Dad did it this way, eventually. Make sure you use a good amount of Loc-Tite that comes with the kit. Ive heard some stories of people having some bolts back out on them. Ive got about a K on the shifter with no problems, it was a little tight to begin with, but its gotten much smoother. The throws are much shorter and much more precise. Very Nice! Oh yeah, be careful with the stock knob. Once its off, you realize that it is a fine piece of work and heavy. Ive tried several knobs and none of them mesh well with the B&M Ripper. Just be careful when removing the stocker so that it can easily be re-used. Approved: 12/28/2005
Very Good Approved: 10/9/2005
THE MILE LONG THROW ON STOCK SHIFTER IS WAY TO SLOW,I WANT TO CHANGE MINE AS SOON AS THE DEALER CAN GET A LEFT REAR AXLE REPLACED(WARRENTY). THE B&M LOOKS LIKE THE HOT SETUP.THE INSTALL ARTICLE W/PICS IS GREAT! THANKS, PETE KEHLERT MACKINAW IL. Approved: 7/30/2005
Created on 5/26/2005.
Last Modified on 5/26/2005.
Last Modified by Andrew (Ames).
Suggested by GTO4Ever on ls1gto.com
Skill Level: Intermediate.
Article has been viewed 41169 times.
Rated 8 out of 10 based on 119 votes.
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